Kalanchoe delagoensis aka Chandelier Plant

Kalanchoe delagoensis thrives in temperatures between 60-95°F (15-35°C) during the growing season. The plant will stop growing when temperatures fall below 50°F (10°C) and can suffer damage or die if exposed to cooler temperatures for extended periods. It is not frost-hardy and should be brought indoors before temperatures drop to 50°F. For flowering, a winter cooling period of 35-44°F (1.5-7°C) can encourage blooms, but this should only be brief. In USDA zones 10-11, the plant can remain outdoors year-round, but elsewhere it must be grown as a houseplant or brought inside during colder months.

Kalanchoe delagoensis propagates incredibly easily through the plantlets that grow along the edges of its leaves. These tiny plants drop naturally and root wherever they land, which is how the plant earned its name 'mother of millions'. You can also collect these plantlets and place them on top of well-draining succulent soil where they'll root within a couple of weeks. Alternatively, stem cuttings work well: cut a healthy stem, let it dry for a day or two to callus over, optionally dip in rooting hormone, then plant in well-draining soil and keep lightly moist until roots establish in 4-6 weeks. Due to its prolific reproduction, be careful to dispose of trimmed plantlets properly to prevent unwanted spreading.

Despite its fast growth rate, Kalanchoe delagoensis doesn't need frequent repotting and actually tolerates being slightly pot-bound. Repot every 1-2 years or when you see roots emerging from drainage holes. The best time to repot is spring or summer, ideally after flowering has finished. Choose a terracotta pot 1-2 inches larger than the current one, as terracotta helps soil dry faster and prevents root rot. Hydrate the soil 24 hours before repotting to minimize transplant shock. Plant at the same depth as before using well-draining cactus/succulent mix with added perlite. Wear gloves when handling as the milky sap can irritate skin.

Pruning is optional for Kalanchoe delagoensis but can help maintain a more compact, bushier appearance. If your plant becomes too tall or leggy, you can prune in spring or summer by cutting the top just above a large leaf using clean, sterile shears. This encourages branching lower on the stem. Remove any dead or damaged leaves as needed, and deadhead spent flowers after they fade. Always wear gloves when pruning as the milky sap can irritate skin. Dispose of trimmed leaves and plantlets carefully in sealed bags to prevent unwanted propagation, as even small pieces can root and spread. If you have space and prefer the plant's natural architectural form, you can skip pruning entirely.

Kalanchoe delagoensis leaves are cylindrical and relatively easy to keep clean. Dust can be gently wiped away with a soft, dry cloth or a slightly damp cloth. Because the plant has a natural waxy coating and produces plantlets along leaf edges, avoid getting water on the leaves frequently as this can encourage fungal issues. The plant doesn't require regular leaf cleaning like broad-leaved houseplants. When handling the plant, wear gloves as the milky sap can cause skin irritation. Keep the area around the plant tidy by removing any fallen plantlets promptly to prevent unwanted propagation.

Yellow leaves on Kalanchoe delagoensis most commonly indicate overwatering, which can lead to root rot. Check if the soil is staying wet too long and ensure proper drainage. Root rot causes leaves to become soft, translucent, and yellow. Other causes include insufficient light (leaves become pale and the plant stretches), nutrient deficiencies, or cold damage if temperatures drop below 50°F. If leaves are yellow and mushy, let the soil dry completely and consider repotting into fresh, well-draining soil. Ensure the pot has drainage holes and the soil mix contains perlite or sand. If leaves are yellow but firm, move the plant to brighter indirect light or check for root damage.

Brown leaves on Kalanchoe delagoensis are most commonly caused by sunburn from intense direct sunlight, especially during hot afternoons. Move the plant to a location with bright indirect light or provide shade during the hottest part of the day. Underwatering can also cause brown, shriveled leaves if the plant goes too long without water. Cold damage shows as brown, mushy leaves when temperatures fall below 50°F. Overfertilization causes small brown spots due to salt buildup burning the roots. Brown tips specifically often indicate low humidity or mineral buildup from tap water. If sunburn is the issue, the damaged tissue won't recover, but new growth will be healthy once lighting is corrected.

Drooping in Kalanchoe delagoensis typically indicates a watering issue. Underwatered plants develop shriveled, drooping leaves that lack turgor pressure. In this case, give the plant a thorough watering and it should recover within a day or two. Overwatered plants also droop but leaves feel soft and mushy rather than shriveled. If overwatering is the cause, let the soil dry completely before watering again. Root rot from prolonged overwatering causes severe drooping as damaged roots can no longer absorb water and nutrients. Other causes include heat stress above 100°F, cold damage below 50°F, or pest infestations like mealybugs that weaken the plant. Check the roots for signs of rot (brown, mushy roots) if drooping persists.

Kalanchoe delagoensis is typically a fast grower, so slow growth usually indicates suboptimal conditions. Insufficient light is the most common cause, as the plant needs bright indirect light for 4-6 hours daily. Low light causes leggy, stretched growth rather than compact, healthy development. Cold temperatures below 50°F will halt growth entirely as the plant enters a dormant state. Lack of nutrients can slow growth, though these plants aren't heavy feeders. During the growing season (spring and summer), feed monthly with a diluted balanced fertilizer at quarter to half strength. Being severely root-bound can also restrict growth, so check if roots are emerging from drainage holes. Winter slowdown is normal as the plant naturally rests during shorter days.

Kalanchoe delagoensis is relatively pest-resistant but can be affected by common succulent pests. Mealybugs are the most common problem, appearing as white cottony masses on leaves and stems and causing yellowing and drooping. Aphids and spider mites may also attack the plant, especially in dry indoor conditions. Treat infestations with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or 70% isopropyl alcohol applied with cotton swabs. Root rot from overwatering is the most serious disease concern, causing mushy, discolored roots and eventual plant death. Powdery mildew can occur in humid, poorly ventilated conditions, appearing as white powdery patches on leaves. Prevent diseases by ensuring excellent drainage, avoiding overwatering, and providing good air circulation. Leggy growth from insufficient light is a common cultural issue rather than a disease.

Kalanchoe delagoensis requires adjusted care through the seasons. During spring and summer (active growing season), water every 7-10 days when soil is dry, provide bright light, and fertilize monthly with diluted succulent fertilizer at quarter strength. Growth is most vigorous during this period. In fall, reduce watering to every 10-14 days as growth slows and stop fertilizing. Winter is the rest period when the plant may flower. Reduce watering to once monthly or less, and the plant benefits from a cooling period of 35-44°F to encourage blooming. Ensure adequate light even in winter to prevent etiolation. If grown outdoors in zones 10-11, bring the plant inside when temperatures approach 50°F. Resume regular care schedule as temperatures warm in spring.

Kalanchoe delagoensis can be grown outdoors year-round only in USDA hardiness zones 10-11 where temperatures don't drop below 30°F. In these zones, plant in well-draining soil in full sun to partial shade, with protection from intense afternoon sun. However, outdoor cultivation is strongly discouraged because this plant is highly invasive. It's declared a noxious weed in Australia and parts of Florida, and is invasive in Hawaii, Texas, and many Pacific islands. The prolific plantlets drop and root everywhere, rapidly displacing native vegetation. In zones 9 and below, treat as a houseplant that can summer outdoors but must come inside before temperatures reach 50°F.

Kalanchoe delagoensis itself doesn't have many named cultivars, but there is a monstrose form (Kalanchoe delagoensis f. monstruosa) with unusual crested growth. More notable are hybrids with related species. Kalanchoe × houghtonii (Houghton's Hybrid) is a cross between K. delagoensis and K. daigremontiana, featuring V-shaped leaves and reaching about 75cm tall. 'Pink Butterflies' is a variegated K. daigremontiana × K. delagoensis hybrid with tiny pink plantlets resembling butterflies, though these plantlets lack chlorophyll and won't survive if propagated. It's important not to confuse K. delagoensis with K. daigremontiana (mother of thousands), which has wider, flat V-shaped leaves rather than the narrow, tubular leaves of K. delagoensis. Flower colors can vary from pale salmon to hot pink to bright orange.

Kalanchoe delagoensis contains bufadienolide cardiac glycosides that have shown potential medicinal properties in scientific research, particularly antitumor and anti-inflammatory effects. In traditional Brazilian medicine, the plant (as K. tubiflora) has been used for wound healing. However, these same compounds are toxic with a very narrow therapeutic index, meaning the difference between a therapeutic and toxic dose is small. The bufadienolides can cause serious cardiac effects including abnormal heart rhythms. Self-medication with this plant is strongly discouraged due to its toxicity. Any medicinal use should only be under proper medical supervision, and currently there are no standardized medicinal products from this species. The plant is primarily toxic rather than therapeutic for general use.