Philodendron bipinnatifidum aka Split Leaf Philodendron

Philodendron bipinnatifidum is a large, self-heading philodendron that grows from a stout erect trunk. Indoors it typically reaches 1.2–3 meters (4–10 feet) tall with a spread of 1.8–3 meters (6–10 feet), while outdoor specimens in tropical climates can reach 4.5 meters (15 feet). The deeply lobed leaves can grow up to 1.2 meters (4 feet) long on petioles measuring 70–150 cm. It has a moderate growth rate and develops a tree-like trunk with prominent leaf scars over time.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum prefers daytime temperatures of 24–29°C (75–85°F) and nighttime temperatures of 18–21°C (65–70°F). It should be brought indoors when temperatures drop below 15°C (60°F) as it is not frost tolerant. In USDA zones 9–11, it can be grown outdoors year-round, but in cooler climates it must be treated as a houseplant or container plant that winters indoors.

Yes, but it rarely blooms indoors — typically requiring 15–20 years to reach reproductive maturity. The inflorescence consists of a spadix enclosed in a greenish spathe with a purplish-red interior. Remarkably, the sterile male flowers burn stored fat to generate heat up to 46°C (115°F), consuming oxygen at rates comparable to a flying hummingbird. This thermogenesis volatilizes scent to attract nocturnal beetle pollinators. If pollination succeeds, the plant produces clusters of white to orange-red berries.

The foliage itself is not fragrant, but the inflorescence produces a notable scent during its two-night blooming period. UF IFAS describes the flowers as having a "pleasant fragrance." The thermogenic spadix heats up specifically to volatilize and disperse aromatic compounds over great distances, attracting nocturnal scarab beetles for pollination. Since indoor plants rarely flower, most growers will not experience the scent.

Several cultivars offer more compact alternatives to the large species. 'Hope' is a popular smaller hybrid reaching about 1.2 meters (4 feet) tall, ideal for indoor spaces. 'Dwarf Selloum' reaches about 1.8 meters (6 feet). 'Lundii' is another compact form noted by UF IFAS. The well-known Philodendron 'Xanadu' (syn. 'Winterbourn'), once thought to be a cultivar, is now recognized as a separate species (Thaumatophyllum xanadu) native to Brazil, reaching about 1.5 meters tall with more finely dissected leaves.

Yes, it thrives outdoors in USDA zones 9–11 and is widely used as a landscape plant in tropical and subtropical regions. It grows well in full sun to partial shade, though intense afternoon sun may cause leaf scorch in hot climates. Plant in rich, moisture-retentive soil and space 90–150 cm (3–5 feet) apart. It has poor salt tolerance, so avoid coastal exposure. In zone 8B, it can survive in protected microclimates. Outdoor specimens grow larger and may eventually produce the spectacular thermogenic inflorescences.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum requires minimal pruning. Remove yellowed, damaged, or dead lower leaves by cutting them at the base of the petiole where it meets the trunk. This keeps the plant tidy and directs energy to new growth. If the plant becomes too large for its space, you can cut the main stem back — the plant will typically resprout from the cut point. Wear gloves when pruning, as the sap contains calcium oxalate crystals that can irritate skin.

Repot when the plant becomes rootbound or when roots grow out of drainage holes, typically every 2–3 years for actively growing plants. Choose a pot only one size larger (5–8 cm wider in diameter) to prevent excess moisture retention. Use a rich, well-draining potting mix amended with perlite for improved drainage. Spring is the ideal time to repot. Be aware that mature specimens become very large and heavy — most growers eventually transition to simply top-dressing with fresh soil rather than fully repotting.

The large, glossy leaves readily collect dust, which can block light absorption and attract pests. Wipe leaves regularly with a soft damp cloth, supporting each leaf from underneath to avoid snapping the petiole. For heavily soiled leaves, use lukewarm water with a tiny drop of mild dish soap, then rinse. Avoid commercial leaf shine products as they can clog stomata. Periodically showering the plant or placing it outdoors during warm rain also works well for cleaning.

The most common home propagation method is stem cuttings. Cut a section of stem with 2–3 nodes, dip in rooting hormone, and place in water or moist potting soil. Roots typically develop in 3–5 weeks. Division of offshoots (when present) is another reliable method — separate rooted offsets from the parent plant and pot individually. The species can also be grown from seed, which is the preferred commercial propagation method according to UF IFAS. Air layering is possible but less common for home growers.

The most common cause is overwatering or poor drainage, which leads to root rot and yellowing lower leaves. Insufficient light is another frequent culprit — Clemson Extension notes that low light combined with overwatering produces smaller leaves with fewer lobes. Natural aging of the oldest lower leaves is normal and not cause for concern. Less common causes include nutrient deficiency (particularly nitrogen) from insufficient fertilizing, or cold drafts below 15°C (60°F).

Brown leaf tips and edges are most commonly caused by excess fertilizer salt buildup — Clemson Extension notes that excessive fertilizer causes leaf tip curling and browning. Flush the soil thoroughly with distilled water or rainwater to leach out salts. Direct sun exposure can cause brown scorched patches on leaves. Low humidity may contribute to crispy brown leaf edges, particularly in heated indoor environments during winter. NC State also notes the plant does not tolerate salt buildup in soil.

Drooping leaves most often indicate underwatering — the plant is drought intolerant and its large leaves wilt quickly when soil dries out. Water thoroughly and the leaves should perk up within hours. Overwatering and root rot can also cause drooping, but this is usually accompanied by yellowing leaves and mushy stems. Cold temperatures below 15°C (60°F) or sudden cold drafts can also cause leaves to droop. Check that the pot has adequate drainage and the plant isn't sitting in water.

Sudden leaf drop is typically triggered by environmental stress — cold drafts, abrupt temperature changes, or being moved to a drastically different light level. Chronic overwatering leading to root rot is another common cause, as damaged roots can no longer support the foliage. Natural shedding of the oldest lower leaves is normal as the plant develops its trunk-like stem. If many leaves drop at once, check for root rot by inspecting the root system for brown, mushy roots.

Insufficient light is the primary cause of slow growth in this species. NC State specifically notes that low light produces smaller leaves with fewer or no lobes — a clear sign the plant needs more brightness. Move it closer to a bright window with indirect light. Other factors include low temperatures (below 18°C/65°F), lack of fertilizer during the growing season, being severely rootbound, or winter dormancy when growth naturally slows. Cold soil temperatures also suppress root activity and nutrient uptake.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum is relatively pest and disease-free. Occasional pest issues include aphids, mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites — inspect regularly and treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil if found. The most significant disease concern is root rot from overwatering or poorly draining soil. UF IFAS and NC State both confirm that no pests or diseases are of major concern for this species. Leaf scorch occurs in full sun, which is an environmental issue rather than a disease.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum has one of the most fascinating pollination systems in the plant kingdom. It is pollinated exclusively by nocturnal scarab beetles of the genera Cyclocephala and Erioscelis. The inflorescence burns stored fat (not carbohydrates) to heat the spadix to temperatures as high as 46°C (115°F), consuming oxygen at rates comparable to a flying hummingbird. This heat volatilizes aromatic compounds that attract beetles from great distances. The beetles enter the warm spathe to feed on pollen and mate, inadvertently transferring pollen between plants over two successive nights.

Philodendron bipinnatifidum is native to southeastern South America, with a range spanning southern and southeastern Brazil, eastern Bolivia, Paraguay, and northeastern Argentina. It grows naturally in tropical and subtropical rainforests, gallery forests, and seasonal forest types. In its native habitat it is a hemiepiphytic aroid — starting life on the forest floor and sometimes climbing trees using adventitious roots, eventually reaching heights of 4.5 meters (15 feet) or more.

Even if you don't have a green thumb, you can successfully care for Split Leaf Philodendron due to its easy-going nature.

Split Leaf Philodendron should be watered regularly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

Split Leaf Philodendron loves a well-draining soil. Perlite and vermiculite help with drainage, while coco coir adds organic matter, so a good potting soil mix will have all three. You can improve store-bought soil by adding some perlite to it.

To ensure optimal growth, the Split Leaf Philodendron prefers bright diffused light for 6-8 hours each day. Insufficient light can result in slow growth and leaf drop, so it's important to find a well-lit location for this plant. Place it near a window, within a distance of 1 meter (3 feet), to enhance its potential for thriving.

No additional humidity is required for the Split Leaf Philodendron. Plants take in most of their water through their roots, not their leaves, therefore, watering the soil is the most effective way to supply humidity to your plants.

Repotting the Split Leaf Philodendron is necessary either when it has doubled in size or once every year, whichever happens first. With fresh potting soil replenished annually, the plant will receive all the necessary nutrients, rendering the use of fertilizer unnecessary. Keep in mind that the source of a plant's energy is the sun, not fertilizer.

The toxicity level of this plant has not been officially confirmed by Ploi. If there is a possibility of ingestion of plant material with an uncertain toxicity by you, a family member, or a pet, it is advisable to seek the assistance of a medical professional.

The Split Leaf Philodendron does not exhibit a standard dormancy pattern. If a substantial slow-down in growth is noticed, double-check that the plant is getting sufficient sunlight and water for optimal growth.