Anthurium papillilaminum

Anthurium papillilaminum is considered one of the more easy-going velvet anthuriums. While it prefers humid greenhouse or terrarium conditions like other velvet species, it can be acclimated to reasonable household conditions much more readily than fussier relatives like A. dressleri or A. kuna. The main challenges are maintaining adequate humidity (ideally 60-80%) and avoiding overwatering. Once established, it is relatively forgiving of occasional care mistakes.

Anthurium papillilaminum is a fast-growing species with a somewhat leggy growth habit and larger internodal spacing than other dark velvet anthuriums. Mature leaves typically reach 13-14 inches (34 cm) in length. The plant undergoes significant morphological changes as it matures, with petioles thickening and leaves broadening considerably. It grows with semi-erect petioles supporting wide, horizontal leaves. Unlike more compact anthuriums, this species tends to develop a climbing habit over time.

Anthurium papillilaminum thrives in temperatures between 65-90°F (18-32°C), with an ideal range of 70-75°F (21-24°C). It is sensitive to temperatures below 60°F (16°C) and should be protected from cold drafts. This tropical species has no frost tolerance whatsoever. If grown outdoors in warm climates, bring plants inside when temperatures drop, as cold damage can be irreversible.

Yes, Anthurium papillilaminum produces typical aroid inflorescences consisting of a spadix and spathe. The spadix is green and held well above the leaves on an erect stem. The spathe displays green coloration with varying degrees of red or violet tinge. However, this species is primarily grown for its spectacular velvety foliage rather than its relatively modest flowers. Blooming usually occurs when the plant reaches maturity and is provided with optimal growing conditions.

Two primary forms are recognized among cultivated Anthurium papillilaminum. The Lago Gatun (LG) form is the classical type with dark green, bullate (puckered) textured leaves featuring taller, rounded lobes and narrower sinuses, with moderately red-tinted undersides. The Canal form derives from wild specimens collected near the Panama Canal and exhibits more elongated, narrower leaves with wider sinuses and shorter, pointed lobes creating a triangular shape. Canal forms are particularly prized for their intense red and yellow emergent veins and deep red-violet leaf undersides.

Anthurium papillilaminum can be propagated through stem cuttings or root division. For stem cuttings, take a 3-6 inch section with at least one node and 2-3 leaves, cutting just below a leaf node. Allow the cut end to callus for a few days, then root in water or a well-draining mix. Expect roots in 6-8 weeks. For division, carefully remove the plant from its pot, separate sections that have both roots and foliage, and dust cuts with fungicide to prevent rot. Propagation is best done in spring or early summer during active growth.

Repot Anthurium papillilaminum every 2-3 years or when roots begin emerging from drainage holes and the plant has doubled in size. Choose a container only 2 inches larger than the previous pot, as anthuriums prefer being slightly rootbound. Early spring is the ideal time for repotting, allowing the plant to establish in fresh soil during its active growing season. Use a chunky, well-draining aroid mix with orchid bark, perlite, and sphagnum moss.

Anthurium papillilaminum is susceptible to common houseplant pests including spider mites (especially in low humidity), mealybugs, scale, and thrips. Inspect the velvety leaves regularly as pests can hide in the textured surface. Root rot from overwatering is the most common disease issue - always ensure the potting mix drains freely and never let the plant sit in water. Fungal infections can occur during propagation, so sterilize tools and dust cuts with fungicide.

Anthurium papillilaminum can be grown outdoors year-round only in USDA zones 10-12, where temperatures remain consistently warm and frost-free. In its native Panama, it grows in humid lowland forests at elevations up to 100 meters. In suitable climates, provide a shaded location with protection from direct sun and wind. In cooler regions, it can be placed outdoors during warm summer months but must be brought inside when temperatures approach 60°F (16°C).

The velvety, papillose texture of Anthurium papillilaminum leaves requires gentle cleaning to avoid damaging the delicate surface bumps. Use a soft, dry brush or compressed air to remove dust. If wet cleaning is necessary, use lukewarm water with a very soft cloth, wiping gently in the direction of leaf growth. Avoid leaf shine products as they can clog the leaf surface. Regular misting helps keep leaves clean while providing beneficial humidity.

Yellow leaves on Anthurium papillilaminum typically indicate overwatering, which leads to root rot and prevents nutrient uptake. Check that soil drains well and reduce watering frequency. Other causes include insufficient light, nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen), or natural aging of older lower leaves. Cold temperatures below 60°F can also cause yellowing. Ensure the plant has bright indirect light, adequate fertilization during growing season, and consistent warmth.

Brown leaf tips or edges on Anthurium papillilaminum usually indicate low humidity - this species prefers 60-80% humidity and suffers in dry air. Brown patches may result from direct sunlight scorching the delicate velvety leaves, or from fertilizer burn if concentration is too strong. Crispy brown leaves throughout may indicate underwatering or cold damage. Increase humidity with a humidifier or pebble tray, ensure bright indirect (not direct) light, and dilute fertilizer to quarter or half strength.

Drooping in Anthurium papillilaminum is most commonly caused by either underwatering (soil completely dry) or overwatering (soil soggy, causing root rot). Check the soil moisture - if dry, water thoroughly; if wet, allow to dry out and check roots for rot. Other causes include temperature stress from cold drafts or sudden changes, transplant shock after repotting, or the plant becoming severely rootbound. Ensure consistent moisture and stable growing conditions.

Anthurium papillilaminum’s native range is the Americas.

Anthurium papillilaminum should be watered regularly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

Anthurium papillilaminum loves a well-draining soil. Perlite and vermiculite help with drainage, while coco coir adds organic matter, so a good potting soil mix will have all three. You can improve store-bought soil by adding some perlite to it.

To ensure optimal growth, the Anthurium papillilaminum prefers bright diffused light for 6-8 hours each day. Insufficient light can result in slow growth and leaf drop, so it's important to find a well-lit location for this plant. Place it near a window, within a distance of 1 meter (3 feet), to enhance its potential for thriving.

No additional humidity is required for the Anthurium papillilaminum. Plants take in most of their water through their roots, not their leaves, therefore, watering the soil is the most effective way to supply humidity to your plants.

Repotting the Anthurium papillilaminum is necessary either when it has doubled in size or once every year, whichever happens first. With fresh potting soil replenished annually, the plant will receive all the necessary nutrients, rendering the use of fertilizer unnecessary. Keep in mind that the source of a plant's energy is the sun, not fertilizer.

The toxicity level of this plant has not been officially confirmed by Ploi. If there is a possibility of ingestion of plant material with an uncertain toxicity by you, a family member, or a pet, it is advisable to seek the assistance of a medical professional.

During the wintertime, it's common for Anthurium papillilaminum to go dormant and their growth may slow down, so waterings should be spaced out more.