Anthurium veitchii aka King Anthurium

Anthurium veitchii is a slow grower, typically producing only one new leaf every 2-3 months. Indoors, mature plants reach 2-5 feet (0.6-1.5 meters) in height with leaves up to 3 feet (1 meter) long. In optimal wild conditions, leaves can exceed 6 feet (2 meters). Young leaves emerge heart-shaped with a bronze or rusty-pink color before developing the signature corrugated texture and dark green coloration as they mature.

Anthurium veitchii thrives in temperatures between 60-80°F (15.5-26.5°C). Being a cloud forest native, it actually prefers slightly cooler conditions than many tropical plants. Avoid temperatures below 55°F (13°C) for extended periods. Keep the plant away from heating and cooling vents, as it is sensitive to drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations.

Yes, Anthurium veitchii can produce flowers, though it is primarily grown for its spectacular foliage rather than blooms. The inflorescence consists of a light pink or cream-colored spathe (the modified leaf) surrounding a spadix (the finger-like spike). Unlike the popular flamingo flower (Anthurium andraeanum), the King Anthurium's flowers are understated. Blooms may appear when the plant reaches maturity under optimal growing conditions.

Anthurium veitchii is available in two main forms: wide form and narrow form. These terms refer to the spacing between the ridges (lateral veins) on the leaves, not the overall leaf shape. The wide form has veins spaced further apart giving a more spread-out ribbed appearance, while the narrow form has closely-spaced veins creating a more densely corrugated texture. The narrow form originates from Colombian seed, while the wide form is commonly produced through tissue culture. Care requirements are identical for both forms.

Anthurium veitchii can grow outdoors year-round only in USDA zones 9-11 where temperatures stay above 55°F (13°C). It requires a shaded position with filtered light, consistent high humidity (70-80%), and protection from direct sun and strong winds. Mature plants may tolerate brief dips into the 30s°F but extended cold will damage or kill the plant. In most climates, it's best grown as an indoor houseplant or in a greenhouse.

Anthurium veitchii requires minimal pruning. Remove yellow, brown, or damaged leaves by cutting them at the base of the petiole (leaf stem) using clean, sterilized scissors or pruning shears. Old lower leaves naturally yellow and can be removed as they decline. Spent flower stalks can also be cut back once they fade. Avoid removing healthy green leaves, as the plant's slow growth rate means each leaf is important for photosynthesis.

Repot Anthurium veitchii when it doubles in size or approximately once per year, whichever comes first. Spring is the ideal time for repotting. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the current one, as these epiphytic plants prefer snug conditions. Use hanging orchid baskets with mesh bottoms to allow excellent drainage and airflow. Always use chunky, well-draining substrate like orchid bark mixed with perlite and charcoal—never standard potting soil.

Clean Anthurium veitchii leaves regularly to remove dust and maintain their beautiful glossy appearance. Gently wipe leaves with a damp, soft cloth or rinse under lukewarm water. The corrugated texture can trap dust in the grooves, so pay attention to the valleys between ridges. Avoid using leaf shine products which can clog pores. Clean leaves not only look better but also photosynthesize more efficiently.

The easiest propagation method is division during repotting in spring. Carefully separate offsets (pups) with their own roots from the parent plant using a sterile knife, then pot individually in chunky, well-draining substrate. Stem cuttings with 2+ nodes and aerial roots can also be rooted in moist sphagnum moss or water—expect roots within 3-4 weeks and transplant readiness in 6-8 weeks. Seed propagation is difficult as fresh seeds are rare and require cross-pollination between two flowering plants.

Yellow leaves on Anthurium veitchii most commonly indicate overwatering or root rot. If leaves yellow from the bottom up with squishy stems, reduce watering and check for mushy, foul-smelling roots. Nutrient deficiency is another cause—overall pale yellowing suggests nitrogen deficiency, while yellowing leaf edges indicate phosphorus shortage. Other causes include insufficient light, low humidity, or natural aging of older lower leaves. Ensure proper drainage and water only when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry.

Brown, crispy leaf tips and edges on Anthurium veitchii typically signal low humidity—this plant needs 70-80% humidity while most homes have only 30-50%. Use a humidifier to increase moisture levels. Other causes include fertilizer salt buildup (flush soil monthly with plain water), underwatering (causing crispy texture with wilting), direct sunlight (which scorches leaves), or cold drafts. Monitor humidity with a digital hygrometer and maintain air circulation to prevent fungal issues.

Drooping leaves on Anthurium veitchii commonly result from underwatering—check if the soil is completely dry and water thoroughly. Paradoxically, overwatering causing root rot can also lead to drooping as damaged roots cannot uptake water. Check roots for mushiness if the soil is wet. Other causes include temperature stress from cold drafts or extreme heat, recent repotting shock, or severely low humidity. The pendulous leaf habit is natural for mature leaves, but sudden drooping of normally upright foliage indicates a problem.

Slow growth is actually normal for Anthurium veitchii—expect only one new leaf every 2-3 months even under optimal conditions. However, abnormally stunted growth may indicate insufficient light (needs bright indirect light for 8+ hours daily), low humidity (below 60%), cold temperatures (below 60°F), root-bound conditions requiring repotting, or nutrient deficiency (feed with balanced fertilizer during growing season). During winter, growth naturally slows further and this is not cause for concern.

Common pests include spider mites (look for webbing and speckled leaves in dry conditions), thrips (deformed new leaves with white streaks), and mealybugs (white cottony clusters on stems and leaf veins). Treat with insecticidal soap, neem oil, or rubbing alcohol for mealybugs. Bacterial blight causes water-soaked lesions and V-shaped dead areas on leaf edges—remove affected leaves and improve air circulation. Prevent problems by maintaining high humidity (deters spider mites), quarantining new plants, and avoiding overwatering which promotes root rot.