Epipremnum aka Golden Pothos

Epipremnum is a vigorous climbing vine with moderate growth rate. As a houseplant, vines typically reach 6-8 feet but can trail 13-40 feet in optimal conditions. In tropical outdoor settings, mature plants can climb 20-65 feet up trees. Juvenile leaves are heart-shaped and 3-6 inches long, while mature outdoor leaves can reach 30 inches with deep fenestrations. Indoor plants remain in their juvenile phase with smaller, unfenestrated leaves. Growth can be controlled through regular pruning.

Epipremnum thrives in typical household temperatures between 65-85°F (18-29°C), with an optimal range of 70-90°F. The plant can tolerate temperatures down to 55°F but should never be exposed to temperatures below 50°F, as cold can permanently damage the roots and foliage. Avoid placing near cold drafts, air conditioning vents, or heating sources. In winter, keep the plant away from chilly windows and let it rest at around 60°F if possible.

Epipremnum is one of the easiest plants to propagate. Take 4-6 inch stem cuttings with 2-4 leaves and at least one node (the bump where leaves and aerial roots emerge). Place cuttings in water or moist vermiculite, ensuring nodes are submerged. Roots develop within 1-4 weeks. Transplant to soil when roots are 1-2 inches long. Spring is the best time to propagate, though cuttings root readily year-round. No rooting hormone is needed for this fast-growing plant.

Popular Epipremnum aureum cultivars include 'Golden Pothos' with classic yellow-green variegation, 'Marble Queen' featuring extensive creamy-white marbling, 'Neon' with bright chartreuse leaves, and 'Jade' with solid dark green foliage. Other notable varieties include 'Pearls and Jade' (University of Florida patented variety with white, gray, and green patches), 'Manjula' (wavy leaves with silver and cream variegation), 'N'Joy' (compact with green and cream), and 'Jessenia' with limey-green markings. Variegated types need brighter light to maintain their coloration.

Epipremnum can grow outdoors year-round only in USDA zones 10-12, which includes parts of southern Florida, coastal California, southern Arizona, and Hawaii. In these regions, it thrives as a vigorous climbing vine and may become naturalized. In cooler climates (zones 9 and below), plants can be moved outdoors during summer when temperatures consistently stay above 55°F, then brought inside before fall. Outdoors, provide partial shade as direct sun can scorch leaves.

Epipremnum extremely rarely flowers indoors, with less than 1% of cultivated plants ever blooming. The plant must reach its mature phase, which requires growing 35-40 feet in tropical conditions - something impossible in typical indoor settings. When flowering does occur (usually only in the wild), it produces a cream-colored spathe marked with purple surrounding a spadix covered in tiny flowers, followed by small berries. Indoor plants remain perpetually juvenile and don't develop the reproductive structures needed for flowering.

Prune Epipremnum during spring through early fall for best results, as the plant recovers quickly during active growth. Cut stems just above a node (where leaves attach) to encourage branching and bushier growth. Remove up to two-thirds of stem length if desired. For leggy plants with bare stems, you can cut back to within 2 inches of soil to encourage fresh growth. Use clean, sharp scissors and wear gloves as the sap can irritate skin. Save healthy cuttings for propagation.

Repot Epipremnum every 2-3 years or when roots start emerging from drainage holes and leaves wilt despite adequate watering. The best time is spring or summer during active growth. Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger than the current one with drainage holes. Use well-draining potting mix rich in organic matter. Gently loosen the root ball, check for any rotting roots (remove if found), and plant at the same depth in fresh soil. Water thoroughly after repotting.

Keep Epipremnum leaves clean by wiping them periodically with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust buildup. This helps the plant photosynthesize efficiently and prevents pest infestations. For regular maintenance, mist leaves to increase humidity and wash away dust. Avoid commercial leaf shine products as they can clog leaf pores. If pests appear, wipe leaves with a cloth dipped in diluted soapy water or neem oil solution, paying attention to undersides where pests hide.

The most common cause of yellow leaves on Epipremnum is overwatering, which suffocates roots and causes rot. Other causes include underwatering (leaves also become crispy), insufficient light, nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen), temperature stress from drafts or cold, and natural aging of older leaves near the base. To diagnose, check soil moisture - if wet and leaves are wilting, reduce watering and check for root rot. If soil is dry and leaves are crispy, water more frequently. Fertilize every 4-6 weeks during growing season if nutrients are suspected.

Brown tips and edges on Epipremnum typically indicate low humidity, underwatering, or fertilizer burn. Tropical by nature, these plants prefer 40-60% humidity; dry indoor air causes crispy brown edges. Other causes include chemical sensitivity to chlorine/fluoride in tap water, excessive fertilizer salts accumulating in soil, or temperature stress from heating vents or cold drafts. Increase humidity with a pebble tray or humidifier, use filtered water, flush soil occasionally to remove salt buildup, and keep plants away from air vents.

Drooping leaves on Epipremnum usually indicate watering issues. The most common cause is underwatering - the plant wilts when thirsty but typically recovers quickly after watering. Conversely, overwatering causes root rot, preventing water uptake and causing permanent wilting. Check the soil: if dry, water thoroughly; if wet and the plant remains droopy, root rot may be present. Other causes include root-bound conditions (check if roots fill the pot), temperature shock, or transplant stress. Severely root-bound plants may droop even when watered adequately.

Common pests include mealybugs (white cottony masses on stems and leaves), spider mites (fine webbing on undersides), and scale insects (brown bumps on stems). Treat by wiping with isopropyl alcohol, spraying with neem oil, or using insecticidal soap. The main disease is root rot from overwatering, causing mushy brown roots and yellowing leaves - repot in fresh soil after removing damaged roots. Fungal leaf spot and powdery mildew occasionally occur in humid conditions with poor air circulation. Prevention through proper watering and good airflow is most effective.