Hoya curtisii aka Tiny Leaf Porcelain Flower

Hoya curtisii thrives in temperatures between 60-80°F (15-27°C). Keep your plant warm and never allow temperatures to drop below 50°F (10°C), as cold stress can damage the foliage and stunt growth. This tropical plant prefers consistent warmth year-round and should be protected from cold drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Yes! Hoya curtisii produces delightfully fragrant flowers with a lovely lemony or citrus scent. The star-shaped blooms, which appear in summer clusters of 6-10 flowers, release their sweet fragrance most noticeably during blooming periods. This pleasant scent is one of the plant's charming features alongside its beautiful silver-speckled foliage.

Hoya curtisii produces clusters of 6-10 fragrant, star-shaped flowers during the summer months. The blooms are pink or red with white centers and emit a lovely lemony fragrance. To encourage blooming, provide bright indirect light for 6+ hours daily, allow the plant to become slightly rootbound, and give it a dry rest period of 4-5 weeks during winter. Mature plants are more likely to flower than young cuttings.

Hoya curtisii does not have distinct cultivars or varieties like some other Hoya species. The silver variegation and spade-shaped leaves are natural characteristics of the species itself, not a specific cultivar. All plants sold as Hoya curtisii share the same core traits: small pointed leaves with silvery-grey mottling in a mosaic pattern. POWO recognizes two subspecies: H. curtisii subsp. curtisii and H. curtisii subsp. collariata, though these are not commonly distinguished in cultivation.

Hoya curtisii can only be grown outdoors year-round in USDA hardiness zones 11-12, which include tropical and subtropical regions like southern Florida and Hawaii. In these areas, it can be grown as an epiphyte on trees or in hanging baskets in shaded locations with protection from direct sun. In cooler climates, it must be grown as a houseplant or brought indoors before temperatures drop below 50°F (10°C).

Pruning is optional for Hoya curtisii but can help maintain shape and promote bushier growth. Prune in late winter to early spring before the growing season begins. Cut just above a node or leaf using clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears, removing no more than one-third of the plant at once to avoid stress. Remove any dead or yellowing leaves as needed throughout the year. Pruning also improves airflow around leaves, helping prevent fungal problems.

Repot Hoya curtisii every 2-3 years or when roots grow from drainage holes, preferably during the spring or summer growing season. Importantly, this plant prefers being somewhat rootbound, which actually encourages blooming. When repotting, move up only one pot size (1-2 inches larger) to prevent soil from staying wet too long. Use a well-draining mix with added perlite or vermiculite for optimal drainage.

Gently dust Hoya curtisii leaves with a soft, damp microfiber cloth or microfiber gloves to remove dust buildup. For light dust, you can rinse with lukewarm water by holding the plant at an angle and gently showering the leaves, allowing excess water to drain freely. Clean leaves regularly to improve light absorption and photosynthesis, and to make them less attractive to pests. Avoid harsh soaps or detergents that can damage the delicate waxy surface of the small spade-shaped leaves.

Propagate Hoya curtisii by stem cuttings in spring or summer. Take a 4-6 inch cutting with at least 2 nodes using clean, sharp scissors, cutting at an angle just below a node. Remove leaves from the bottom 2 inches, leaving only 2 leaves at the top. Root in water (changing weekly), damp sphagnum moss and perlite, or well-draining soil. Dipping in rooting hormone can speed the process. Roots typically form within 2-6 weeks, with water propagation being faster than soil.

Yellow leaves on Hoya curtisii most commonly indicate overwatering, especially if multiple leaves turn yellow at once and feel mushy or soft. Allow soil to dry out between waterings and ensure good drainage. Underwatering can also cause yellowing of individual dry, crispy leaves—water thoroughly when the top inch of soil is dry. Nutrient deficiency may also cause yellowing; fertilize monthly during the growing season with diluted balanced fertilizer. If you see root rot, repot immediately in fresh soil after removing affected roots.

Brown leaves or brown spots on Hoya curtisii typically result from sunburn caused by direct sunlight—move your plant to bright, indirect light and use sheer curtains to diffuse harsh sun. Water quality issues, particularly chemical accumulation from tap water, can also cause browning. Underwatering leads to crispy brown edges, while overwatering can cause brown, mushy spots. Pests and diseases may create brown spots as well; inspect for mealybugs, aphids, or fungal infections and treat accordingly.

Slow growth is actually normal for Hoya curtisii—it's naturally a slow-growing plant that focuses on establishing strong roots before producing significant foliage. New plants may sit dormant initially before growth picks up. However, insufficient light is the most common cause of stunted growth beyond the normal slow pace; ensure your plant receives 6+ hours of bright, indirect light daily. Lack of fertilization during the growing season can also slow growth—feed monthly with diluted balanced fertilizer in spring and summer. Winter dormancy naturally slows or pauses growth.

Hoya curtisii is vulnerable to common houseplant pests including mealybugs (tiny white fuzzy insects), aphids (small green/brown insects on new growth), scale, and spider mites. These sap-sucking pests cause yellowing, sticky honeydew residue, and stunted growth. Treat infestations by spraying with water, neem oil solution, insecticidal soap, or rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab for individual pests. The best disease prevention is avoiding overwatering—ensure well-draining soil and allow soil to dry between waterings to prevent root rot and fungal growth.