Philodendron domesticum aka Spade Leaf Philodendron

Philodendron domesticum thrives in temperatures between 18-27°C (65-80°F). It should be kept above 15°C (59°F) at minimum, as the RHS recommends maintaining temperatures of at least 15°C. NC State notes these plants are 'highly sensitive to cold' so keep them away from cold drafts and hot radiators. Avoid placing near air conditioning vents or single-pane windows in winter.

Propagate Philodendron domesticum from stem cuttings taken in spring through late summer. Cut a 10cm stem just below a leaf node, remove the lower leaves, and place in water. Roots typically develop within two weeks. Once rooted, pot into a well-draining acidic compost mix. RHS recommends combining two parts orchid compost with one part peat-free ericaceous compost. Always wear gloves when taking cuttings as the sap can irritate skin.

Prune Philodendron domesticum in spring to control size and encourage bushier, more compact growth. Make cuts just after leaf nodes where new growth will emerge. Climbing varieties like P. domesticum benefit from a moss pole or support for climbing. Always wear gloves when pruning as the sap is irritating to skin. Remove any yellow or damaged leaves as they appear throughout the year.

Repot Philodendron domesticum in spring when roots become densely packed or begin emerging from drainage holes. Choose a pot only slightly larger than the current rootball—oversized pots retain excess moisture and can lead to root rot. Use a loose, free-draining, slightly acidic compost (pH 5-6). An ideal mix is two parts orchid compost to one part peat-free ericaceous compost.

Wipe the large, glossy leaves of Philodendron domesticum periodically with a damp cloth to remove dust. As RHS notes, clean leaves maximize light absorption which helps the plant photosynthesize efficiently. Avoid using leaf shine products which can clog pores. If leaves are particularly dusty, you can also gently shower the plant with lukewarm water in a sink or bathtub.

Philodendron domesticum is a climbing philodendron with a fast growth rate. Individual leaves can reach up to 56cm (22 inches) long and 23cm (9 inches) wide. As a houseplant, it typically grows to about 1.2m (4 feet), though in optimal conditions or its native tropical habitat it can reach up to 3m (10 feet). The plant develops aerial roots for climbing and benefits from a moss pole or support structure to reach its full potential.

Common pests include mealybugs, aphids, scale insects, thrips, spider mites, and red spider mites. Inspect regularly under leaves and along stems. Root rot is the primary disease concern, caused by overwatering and poorly draining soil. NC State recommends increasing air circulation to help prevent fungal leaf spots. Isolate new plants for a few weeks before introducing them to your collection to prevent pest spread.

Yellow leaves on Philodendron domesticum most commonly indicate overwatering or root rot. Check that soil is drying out between waterings and that the pot has adequate drainage. Other causes include insufficient light (causing leggy growth with smaller, yellowing leaves), underwatering (leaves yellow and droop), or natural aging of lower leaves. Cold drafts can also trigger yellowing, as these tropical plants are sensitive to temperature fluctuations.

Brown leaf tips usually indicate low humidity—philodendrons prefer moderate to high humidity. Brown scorched patches suggest direct sunlight damage; move to a spot with bright indirect light. Brown, mushy stems and leaves point to root rot from overwatering. Brown crispy edges may indicate underwatering or salt buildup from fertilizer. If using hard tap water, switch to filtered or rainwater as RHS recommends to prevent mineral buildup.

Drooping in Philodendron domesticum is typically caused by watering issues. Underwatering causes leaves to droop and feel limp—check if soil is completely dry and water thoroughly. Overwatering and root rot also cause drooping with yellowing leaves and mushy stems. Temperature stress from cold drafts or sudden temperature drops can cause temporary wilting. After correcting the issue, healthy plants usually recover within a few days.

Slow growth usually indicates insufficient light—philodendrons need bright indirect light and become 'leggy with fewer, smaller leaves' in low light according to RHS. Other causes include lack of nutrients (feed monthly during the growing season), rootbound conditions (repot if roots are crowded), cold temperatures (maintain above 15°C/59°F), or dormancy in winter when growth naturally slows. Ensure the plant receives adequate warmth, light, and regular fertilization during spring and summer.

Philodendron domesticum can only grow outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9-11 where temperatures stay above 15°C (59°F). In cooler climates, it can be placed outdoors during summer in a shaded spot protected from direct sun and wind. Bring indoors when nighttime temperatures drop below 13°C (55°F). NC State notes these tropical plants are 'highly sensitive to cold' and cannot tolerate frost.

Philodendron domesticum rarely flowers when grown as a houseplant. In its native tropical habitat or ideal greenhouse conditions, it can produce spadix flowers typical of the Araceae family—a central spike surrounded by a spathe (modified leaf). However, flowering requires mature plants in optimal conditions with high humidity, warmth, and excellent light. Most indoor plants never reach flowering maturity, so this species is grown primarily for its attractive foliage.

Philodendron domesticum originates from the tropical regions of Central and South America. The genus Philodendron contains over 600 species native to this area, growing in rainforest environments where they climb trees using aerial roots. NC State Extension notes the name derives from Greek words meaning 'to love' and 'tree,' reflecting their climbing nature in native habitats.