Spathiphyllum cannifolium aka Spatheflower

Spathiphyllum cannifolium is a clumping perennial that typically reaches around 50 cm indoors, though closely related cultivars and species in the genus can grow from 30 cm to over 1.5 m tall with an equal spread. Growth is moderate under good conditions (warm temperatures, adequate indirect light, consistent moisture) and slows noticeably in cool or very low-light environments.

Peace lilies are among the most shade-tolerant flowering houseplants, tolerating fewer than two hours of direct sunlight daily or no direct sun at all. Bright, filtered indirect light produces the most reliable blooming and lushest foliage. Direct sun scorches leaves and causes brown tips. A position near a north- or east-facing window, or set back from a bright west or south window, is ideal.

S. cannifolium grows best at 18–30 °C (65–85 °F) with a moderate drop of no more than 5–6 °C at night. Temperatures below 15 °C (60 °F) begin to inhibit growth, and below 10 °C (50 °F) can cause significant damage to foliage, stems, and roots. Keep plants away from cold draughts, air-conditioning vents, and radiators, all of which create temperature extremes the plant cannot tolerate.

No notable fragrance is recorded for Spathiphyllum cannifolium. The genus is generally not noted for scent in horticultural literature, and the white spathe-and-spadix flowers are valued for their long-lasting visual display rather than perfume.

The inflorescence is a white spathe (a large, leaf-like bract) held above the foliage on a slender stem, surrounding a narrow, cream to greenish-white spadix that bears the true flowers. Spathes are bright white when they open and gradually change to pale green after about ten days, remaining ornamentally attractive for a further four to six weeks. Under appropriate conditions (adequate light and warmth) plants can flower at any time of year. Pollen is released over approximately four days; if pollination occurs, fruits develop over four to six months and contain up to eight seeds each.

The Spathiphyllum genus contains approximately 59 accepted species. Widely grown cultivars include 'Mauna Loa' (large plant with nearly 90 cm leaves, recipient of the RHS Award of Garden Merit), 'Sensation' (over 1.5 m tall, one of the largest cultivars), and 'Petite' (compact houseplant). Variegated forms such as S. wallisii 'Domino' (cream-striped leaves) and 'Gemini' (irregular white stripes, 30 cm) are also popular. S. cannifolium itself is the widespread American species in section Massowia.

S. cannifolium can be grown outdoors year-round only in frost-free climates (USDA zones 11–12, equivalent to tropical and warm subtropical regions). It prefers a shaded or dappled-light position sheltered from direct midday sun and from wind. In temperate climates it can be moved outdoors in summer once night temperatures are reliably above 15 °C (60 °F), but must be brought back inside before the first cool nights of autumn. Soil outdoors should be rich in organic matter, acidic (pH below 6.0), and moisture-retentive but free-draining.

Peace lilies do not require routine pruning. Remove spent flower stems at the base once the spathe has fully faded. Yellow or brown leaves can be cut off at the base with clean scissors to maintain appearance. Avoid cutting healthy green leaves, as this can introduce disease and the plant does not form woody stems that benefit from hard cutting back.

Repot in late winter or early spring (February–March is recommended). The plant tolerates and even benefits from being somewhat pot-bound, so repot only when roots are visibly emerging from drainage holes. Choose a new container only 2–5 cm (1–2 inches) larger in diameter, use a well-draining, organic-matter-rich acidic potting mix, and water thoroughly after repotting.

Wipe both surfaces of the large, glossy leaves regularly with a damp cloth to remove dust accumulation, which impairs photosynthesis and can harbour pests such as spider mites and mealybugs. Do not use leaf-shine products, which can block stomata. The simple practice of keeping leaves clean is one of the most effective preventive measures against common houseplant pests.

The standard method for home propagation is division: remove the plant from its pot in spring, gently separate rooted offsets (clumps with their own roots and leaves) from the parent, and pot them individually in moist, well-draining mix. Commercial production relies on tissue culture, and gibberellic acid treatment is used industrially to induce and synchronise flowering.

Yellowing leaves most commonly result from overwatering or poor drainage (leading to root rot), allowing the soil to dry out completely, low humidity, or magnesium deficiency (which shows as yellowing of the tissue between the veins while veins remain green). Very low light can also cause pale or yellow older leaves. Assess watering habits and soil drainage first, as root rot is the most serious cause.

Brown leaf tips are the most common cosmetic complaint and usually indicate one or more of: low ambient humidity, underwatering (allowing the root ball to dry out), salt accumulation from fertiliser (flush the soil regularly), or direct sun exposure. Brown patches across leaves indicate sunscorch; fully brown lower leaves that die off naturally can simply be removed.

Peace lilies droop dramatically when the root zone dries out too much, acting as a clear signal that watering is needed. Prompt, thorough watering will usually restore the plant within a few hours. Persistent drooping even with adequate moisture can indicate root rot from waterlogged soil — in that case, inspect the roots and repot into fresh, well-draining mix.

Significant leaf loss is not typical for this evergreen perennial in normal conditions. It can occur after sudden temperature drops, cold draughts, or exposure to temperatures below 10 °C (50 °F), which damage root and leaf tissue. Moving the plant from very low light to a brighter position (or the reverse) can also cause temporary leaf drop as the plant acclimates.

Slow or halted growth is usually caused by insufficient light, temperatures below 15 °C (60 °F), very low humidity, or under-fertilising over a prolonged period. Because peace lilies are slow to medium growers under ideal conditions, some patience is needed, but if the plant has produced no new leaves after several months during the growing season, reassess light levels and temperature before adjusting watering or feeding.

Spider mites, scale insects, and fungus gnats are also reported. Overwatering is the primary cause of disease, leading to Pythium or Phytophthora root and stem rot. Inspect leaves regularly; wipe off mealybugs with a damp cloth or treat with insecticidal soap. Allow the soil surface to dry slightly between waterings to deter fungus gnats.

The flowers are borne on a spadix; male and female flowers mature simultaneously and pollen is shed over approximately four days. In the wild, pollination is likely carried out by insects (typical for Araceae). Indoors, hand pollination is possible by transferring pollen from the spadix to the pistils; if successful, the plant develops small ovoid fruits over four to six months, each containing up to eight seeds.

Spathiphyllum cannifolium is not edible. All parts of the plant contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals. Ingestion causes immediate and intense burning and irritation of the mouth, tongue, throat, and lips, along with excessive drooling, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing. It is rated toxic to dogs, cats, horses, and children by the ASPCA. Seek veterinary or medical attention if significant quantities are consumed.

No traditional or clinical medicinal uses are formally documented for S. cannifolium in major databases. Kew's Medicinal Plant Names Services notes it has not been explicitly cited in the medicinal literature, though a closely related taxon is recorded as medicinal. Laboratory research (Dhayalan et al., 2018) identified flavonoids, alkaloids, saponins, tannins, sterols, and glycosides in leaf extracts and demonstrated in-vitro antimicrobial activity against several bacterial and fungal pathogens, but this has not translated into established therapeutic use.

The species is widely cultivated as an ornamental houseplant, valued for its tolerance of low light, attractive dark-green foliage, and long-lasting white flowers. NASA's Clean Air Study (referenced in popular literature) suggested Spathiphyllum may help remove certain volatile organic compounds from indoor air, contributing to its popularity as an office and interior plant.

If you're looking for a plant that offers a moderate level of challenge, Spatheflower is a great choice to test your gardening skills.

Spatheflower’s native range is Colombia and Venezuela.

Spatheflower should be watered regularly, allowing the soil to dry out between waterings.

Spatheflower loves a well-draining soil. Perlite and vermiculite help with drainage, while coco coir adds organic matter, so a good potting soil mix will have all three. You can improve store-bought soil by adding some perlite to it.

The Spatheflower does not need extra humidity. Plants primarily absorb water through their root system, making soil watering the best way to provide humidity to your plants.

The Spatheflower should be repotted when it has doubled in size or annually, whichever comes first. Providing fresh potting soil with all the essential nutrients each year ensures the plant's well-being, eliminating the need for fertilizer. Remember, plants derive their energy from the sun and not fertilizer.

Ploi lacks confirmed information on the toxicity of this plant. If you, a relative, or your pet accidentally consume plant material with unknown toxicity, it's best to consult a medical expert.

During the cold period, it is common for Spatheflower to go dormant, resulting in a slowdown of growth. To accommodate this, waterings should be spaced out more.