Hippeastrum reginae aka Mexican Lily

Hippeastrum reginae reaches 30-60cm (12-24 inches) in height when flowering. The strap-shaped leaves grow 30-90cm long and 2.5-5cm wide, forming a tuft from the base. The flower stalk (scape) is hollow and erect, typically 20-75cm tall. The bulb itself is globular, 5-12cm in diameter. Under ideal conditions, it takes 6-12 months to reach full size during active growth. The plant has a moderate growth rate, with offset bulbs taking 3-4 years to reach flowering maturity.

During active growth and flowering, Hippeastrum reginae thrives at 21°C (70°F). To extend bloom life, move the plant to a cooler spot at 15-18°C (60-65°F). For the dormancy period, temperatures of 7-16°C (45-60°F) are ideal—a cool basement, heated garage, or cool closet works well. Never expose to frost, as the bulb will be damaged. When moving plants outdoors in summer, wait until temperatures consistently reach the high 50s°F.

Apply a balanced liquid fertilizer weekly after flowering while the leaves are actively growing—this is when the bulb stores energy for next year's blooms. Continue feeding through spring and summer. Stop fertilizing when inducing dormancy in late summer/early fall. Resume feeding when new growth appears after the rest period. A balanced fertilizer (equal N-P-K) or one slightly higher in phosphorus supports flowering.

Hippeastrum reginae follows an annual cycle. In winter/spring (active growth and bloom), provide bright indirect light, regular watering, and weekly fertilizing. In summer, continue care or move outdoors to partial shade. In late summer/early fall, stop watering and fertilizing to induce dormancy—move to a cool (7-16°C), dark location for 8-12 weeks. The leaves will yellow and die back naturally. Resume watering when new growth emerges, typically 6-8 weeks before desired bloom time. This rest period helps ensure reliable, spectacular reflowering.

Hippeastrum reginae produces stunning trumpet-shaped flowers that are bright orange-red with a distinctive white or greenish-yellow throat—this white throat distinguishes it from the similar H. puniceum. Each flower is 12-20cm (5-8 inches) across, with six colorful tepals. The flowers appear in umbel-like clusters of 2-4 blooms atop a hollow 20-75cm stalk. The species is historically significant as one of the first Hippeastrum crossed to create hybrids (with H. vittatum in 1799).

The easiest home propagation method is by separating offset bulbils during repotting (January-March) or during dormancy. Offsets should be at least one-quarter the size of the mother bulb. Allow them to dry for a day before potting individually—they'll flower in 3-4 years and be identical to the parent. Seed propagation is possible but takes 6 years to reach flowering size and produces variable offspring. Commercial growers use 'twin scaling'—dividing the bulb into sections—which yields more bulbs but requires skill. Always use well-draining soil and position bulbs with one-third above the soil surface.

Hippeastrum reginae can grow outdoors year-round only in USDA zones 9-11, as it cannot tolerate frost. In cooler climates, move potted plants outdoors in summer after danger of frost has passed—place in partial shade (avoid direct afternoon sun) and water regularly. Sink pots into garden soil if desired. Move indoors by late September to initiate dormancy. In its native habitat (Peru, Bolivia, Brazil, Venezuela), it grows in seasonally dry tropical environments and can naturalize where conditions are suitable.

After flowers fade, cut the spent flower stalk at its base—leaving it drains energy from the bulb. However, never cut the leaves after flowering; they're essential for photosynthesis and storing energy for next year's blooms. Allow leaves to grow throughout spring and summer. When preparing for dormancy in late summer/fall, stop watering and let leaves yellow naturally. Once withered, trim remaining old leaves to about 10cm from the bulb neck before moving to cool storage.

Repot every 2-3 years during January-March after flowering, or when the bulb outgrows its pot. Hippeastrum prefers being slightly rootbound, so choose a pot only 2.5-5cm (1-2 inches) wider than the bulb diameter. Position the bulb with one-third to one-half above the soil surface—burying it too deep increases rot risk. Use well-draining potting mix with perlite. There's no need to repot annually or remove the bulb during dormancy unless the medium has broken down or offsets have crowded the pot.

The most common disease is red blotch (leaf scorch), caused by the fungus Stagonosporopsis curtisii. It appears as red spots with defined margins on leaves, stems, and bulb scales—but note that any injury to Hippeastrum can cause reddening, so look for characteristic soft, sunken patches. Treat by removing infected material and dipping bulbs in dilute bleach or fungicide. Bulb rot from overwatering or poor drainage is also common; affected bulbs are mushy and discolored. Pests include Spanish moth caterpillars, spider mites, bulb scale mites, and narcissus bulb flies. Outdoors, watch for slugs and snails. Maintain good air circulation to prevent fungal issues.

Yellow leaves on Hippeastrum often have natural causes—as the plant approaches dormancy in late summer/fall, leaves gradually yellow and die back as energy transfers to the bulb. This is normal and expected. However, if new leaves turn yellow or all leaves change suddenly, check for overwatering (the most common culprit, causing root rot), underwatering (leaves become crispy and dry), or insufficient light (leaves become pale and leggy). Also inspect for pests and check the bulb for soft, rotting areas. A healthy bulb should be firm. Mosaic virus can cause indefinite yellow mottling—infected plants should be destroyed.

Drooping leaves most commonly result from watering issues. Overwatering causes soft, mushy leaves and can lead to bulb rot—check for dark, rotten areas on the bulb. Underwatering causes crispy, dry leaves. Shock from moving the plant or environmental changes can also cause dramatic drooping. Insufficient light weakens the plant over time, resulting in limp leaves. Temperature extremes, pest infestations (look for webbing, sticky residue, or discoloration), and diseases like southern blight can also cause wilting. Ensure good drainage, consistent watering during active growth, and bright indirect light.

Hippeastrum reginae reproduces primarily through cross-pollination (allogamy), relying on insects to transfer pollen between plants. The large, colorful flowers have six stamens with yellow anthers and a three-lobed stigma. The anthers and stigma mature at different times to encourage outcrossing. After successful pollination, the plant produces globular capsules containing flat, papery black seeds. Historically, H. reginae is significant in Hippeastrum breeding—Arthur Johnson first crossed it with H. vittatum in 1799 to create 'Johnsonii', sparking the modern amaryllis hybrid industry.

Hippeastrum reginae is native to South America, specifically Peru, Bolivia, Venezuela, and central-southeastern Brazil. It grows primarily in seasonally dry tropical biomes, which explains its dormancy adaptation—the bulb stores water and nutrients to survive dry periods. The species has been widely introduced as an ornamental and has naturalized in tropical regions including the West Indies, parts of Africa, Mauritius, and other Indian Ocean islands. Its specific epithet 'reginae' means 'of the queen' in Latin, and this species was the type specimen that gave the genus Hippeastrum its name.